Mammoth

There was nowhere dry to climb, so we went skiing at Mammoth. Grant rented skis at Value Sports in Bishop Friday night. The guy behind the rental counter implied that the resort might be closed because of the storm, but we were able to ski both days. Crowds were light.

Sunday morning, while waiting at the Looney Bean in Bishop for the 395 to open, we decided to do the Ouray Ice Festival.

Xmas 2006

My brother and I left after work on the 19th. We took hwy 14 and hwy 138 (slow) to I-15. We made it to St. George by 1am mountain time.

On the 20th we skiied at Brian Head. There was a cold snap, which may be why I broke the back flaps of my snowboard bindings. If you go, make sure you park at the main lodge and not the Navajo lodge, unless you want to be limited to easy terrain. As it was, the Giant Steps lift was closed, making most of the black runs inaccessible.

That evening we drove to Salt Lake City. We had difficulty finding the Super 8 Motel close to the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

At Alta I rented Head Monster skis, which are heavy and good for crud. In the evening I bought a telemarking package from Wasatch Touring.

We stayed at Burley, ID that night, and we hoped to ski at Sun Valley on the 22nd. A snow storm made for bad driving conditions across Idaho, and faced with the prospect of driving at 30 mph, we didn’t think we would have time for the resort. We passed a lot of people who drove off the side of the road and a few wrecks.

At one point a truck lost control and drifted sideways from the slow lane to the fast lane in front of us and into the median, where he threw up a rooster tail of snow that we had to drive through. Once we got visibility back, we could see him continue his slide across the median, across the lanes on the other side of the freeway, and into the other shoulder. Meanwhile my brother was on the phone with Mom. He had no idea what she was saying.

The roads were good from Boise to Seattle.

We opened gifts with Dad, Nee, Grandma, Derek and Sharon on the evening of the 23rd. Nee got a new cell phone. Phones these days can store photos with telephone numbers and display them when a call is received from that number. Nee will see butt cheeks whenever she gets a call from Derek.

On the 24th we skiied Crystal Mountain. My telemarking boots are so tight I couldn’t stand it, and I switched to a snowboard after two runs. I had trouble making the telemark turn with my right knee forward. My left ski was turning out too much. Because of high winds and an incoming storm, the upper lifts were closed.

That evening we had dinner with Mom, and afterwards we visited the Jensens. John showed me the arrowheads he collected in eastern Oregon. He shared with me the location of what he thinks will be a promising archeological site which I am not at liberty to divulge.

On the 25th we drove home. We left Albany, OR at 7am and made it to Los Angeles at 9pm.

Lassen

On my way up to the NW, I stopped off in Lassen National Park and made a ski descent of the south side. It was a heavy snow year. Usually the good skiing would be in April or May. The way to get the good snow is to monitor the park website and go as soon as the main road opens. Park in the lot used by the summer peak baggers. It is about a 1500 ft climb and descent.

If you have two cars, a better option would be to climb the south side and descend the NE face for steeper skiing and a 4000 ft descent. Return to the road and your 2nd car at Hat Lake.

9 Mb wmv

Sierra Nevada

Lee Vining Canyon (9000ft), December 21

My brother and I went ice climbing for the first time on waterfall ice. We toproped “Waterlogged” (WI3), “Colonel Clink” (WI3+), and “Conrad’s Corner” (WI4-). Topos of the climbs are available here. We did not have appropriate crampons for this type of climbing. The current ice climbing conditions in Lee Vining Canyon.

Two weeks later I went on an overnight backcountry skiing trip in Sequoia NP. The area is called the Tableland. I overpacked and had a miserable time skiing in. I built a snow shelter to sleep in, pictured below. I made the snow bricks too thick. Because of their weight it was exhausting lifting them into place. I got the idea for the trip from the book Ski and Snowboard Summits in California.

Mt St Helens

My brother (right) and I climbing Mt St Helens on the last unrestricted weekend. After the 15th, the forest service only allows 100 people to summit per day.

The rangers estimated that 500 to 800 people were on the mountain. In honor of Mother’s day, many of them were in drag.

I broke one of my skis on the descent. Last year I broke the toe of one of my bindings while skiing on the Muir snowfield. The truth of the matter is that I have yet to have a good backcountry skiing experience.

Moab, UT

My brother and I got out to Moab Thursday night. Friday we climbed at Wall Street. We did “Seibernetics” 5.8+, “El Crack Diablo” 5.10a, “Slab” 5.8, and “Lacto Mangulation” 5.10b.

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Friday night we met up with my cousin, and the three of us made an attempt to ascend the Priest via “Honeymoon Chimney” 5.9 C1. The first pitch was a 5.9 offwidth. I carried a lot of protection, but ended up only using a #4 big bro. It was a significant effort, and I wish someone had taken a picture of me on it.

	A couple of shots looking out from the base of the chimney.
	On the left, my brother and my cousin. On the right, looking up the 5.7 chimney which is the 2nd pitch. It is protected by two bolts.
	My brother jugging up the 3rd pitch, which goes free at 5.11.

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The forecast called for deteriorating weather on Monday, so we drove to Telluride to ski. The snow was poor: icy at high elevations and slushy and sparse at low elevations.

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Tuesday and Wednesday we climbed at Indian Creek, where we did “Dawn of an Age” 5.10, “Supercrack” 5.10, and a couple of unnamed 5.9 cracks. We attempted the unnamed crack on the Battle of the Bulge Buttress which is right of “Jane Fonda Total Body Workout”. Though rated 5.10+ in our guidebook, a climber who was passing by thought the climb was actually 5.11c.

	Me attempting “Supercrack”. Next time I will bring 4 #3 Camalots, 5 #2 Camalots, and a .4 or a .3 Camalot.
	My brother on “Supercrack”.

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On Friday we skiied at Alta. Conditions were good: sunny, cold, with 4″ of fresh powder.