Moab, UT

March 28, 2003

My brother and I got out to Moab Thursday night. Friday we climbed at Wall Street. We did “Seibernetics” 5.8+, “El Crack Diablo” 5.10a, “Slab” 5.8, and “Lacto Mangulation” 5.10b.


Friday night we met up with my cousin, and the three of us made an attempt to ascend the Priest via “Honeymoon Chimney” 5.9 C1. The first pitch was a 5.9 offwidth. I carried a lot of protection, but ended up only using a #4 big bro. It was a significant effort, and I wish someone had taken a picture of me on it. A couple of shots looking out from the base of the chimney. On the left, my brother and my cousin. On the right, looking up the 5.7 chimney which is the 2nd pitch. It is protected by two bolts. My brother jugging up the 3rd pitch, which goes free at 5.11.


The forecast called for deteriorating weather on Monday, so we drove to Telluride to ski. The snow was poor: icy at high elevations and slushy and sparse at low elevations.


Tuesday and Wednesday we climbed at Indian Creek, where we did “Dawn of an Age” 5.10, “Supercrack” 5.10, and a couple of unnamed 5.9 cracks. We attempted the unnamed crack on the Battle of the Bulge Buttress which is right of “Jane Fonda Total Body Workout”. Though rated 5.10+ in our guidebook, a climber who was passing by thought the climb was actually 5.11c.

Me attempting “Supercrack”. Next time I will bring 4 #3 Camalots, 5 #2 Camalots, and a .4 or a .3 Camalot. My brother on “Supercrack”. On Friday we skiied at Alta. Conditions were good: sunny, cold, with 4″ of fresh powder.

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