Mt Shasta

June 15, 2005

Monday – June 13th

Left Bunny Flat (7000ft) at 1pm with my brother and Paul. Set up camp at Helen Lake (10400ft). I brought a bivy sack for shelter. Concerned that I might get cold, I built a snow shelter with a partial roof. For dinner I made stew from beef cubes, frozen vegetables, potato flakes, and a shallot. Paul treated us to a round of Bushmills whiskey.

Tuesday – June 14th

At the advice of the website, we got up at 2am and left camp at 3am. Absurd, because the climb is short and we climbed in the cold and dark unnecessarily. We passed 3 people on the way to Red Banks (12800ft), where my brother felt nauseated and stopped climbing. Paul and I tagged the summit (14162ft) at 6:30am. There were winds up to 50mph along the way, but the summit itself was calm. We got back to the car at 12:30pm.



May 1, 2005

Silvia and I went to Manhattan in May. We attended a surprise 40th birthday party for my brother-in-law Evan. Afterwards we went to a club with my aunt where everyone sings along with the piano player. Old music, like Elton John and Billy Joel. We went to the MOMA. Silvia wanted to go to the top of the Empire State Building, so we endured that. She left the Statue of Liberty for another trip. While in midtown I bought a video camera, the fruits of which are below. The first clip is of us taking in the sights in Greenwich Village.

We stayed in the Comfort Inn on the westside (71st) within a block of Central Park. We took a run on the park drive. On a later day I did some laps around the reservoir. It is clear that the serious runners run the drive, not the reservoir.

The last clip is of us checking out the bouldering in Central Park. The rock, some sort of wavy slate or phyllite, felt greasy, and it had a lot of open holds. Too bad I didn’t bring a chalk bag.

Red Rocks, NV

April 3, 2005

On February 6th my brother and I drove out to Las Vegas. The following morning we climbed “Frogland” III 5.8.
“Frogland” is on a small mountain called Whiskey Peak. Behind it is the Black Velvet Wall. My brother leads on the 4th pitch. The view from the chockstone. My brother poses over Las Vegas, not really visible in the haze.

Our time on “Frogland” was pretty good. Less than 5 hours. For spring break we decided to try something longer. After a distraction renting and playing around with telemark gear at Mammoth, we returned to Las Vegas and made a go at “Epinephrine” IV 5.9. It was the 30th of March.

This is a long route, with about 1300 feet of serious climbing, following by 700 ft of third class climbing and then a 3 hour descent. We started early. We left the car around 4:30am, and reached the base of the climb at about 5:45am. Our car-to-car time was 12 hours.

After some easy face climbing, the route enters a 400 foot chimney. I led through this section. I had some protection problems: the rope jammed between a lobe of a cam and the rock. I was forced to downclimb through the crux smooth section to fix it and then reclimb that section again.

My brother follows the 2nd pitch above the tower. There was a climbing party after us, and you can see one of them standing on the tower. There were climbers on “Prince of Darkness” III 5.10 My brother follows on one of the higher pitches. Some summit shots.

Sierra Nevada

January 15, 2005

Lee Vining Canyon (9000ft), December 21

My brother and I went ice climbing for the first time on waterfall ice. We toproped “Waterlogged” (WI3), “Colonel Clink” (WI3+), and “Conrad’s Corner” (WI4-). Topos of the climbs are available here. We did not have appropriate crampons for this type of climbing. The current ice climbing conditions in Lee Vining Canyon.

Two weeks later I went on an overnight backcountry skiing trip in Sequoia NP. The area is called the Tableland. I overpacked and had a miserable time skiing in. I built a snow shelter to sleep in, pictured below. I made the snow bricks too thick. Because of their weight it was exhausting lifting them into place. I got the idea for the trip from the book Ski and Snowboard Summits in California.

Washington State

July 15, 2004

Washington: July 2004

Mt. Rainier (14,411 ft), July 2-3
Mountain as seen while hiking up to Camp Muir. On the rim of the summit crater. It was windy, and visibility was poor. At about 13,000 and descending, with a view of Little Tahoma.

Mt. Stuart (9415 ft), July 9-10

Hiked in from the Teanaway trailhead and set up camp near Lake Ingalls (6500 ft). Got this partial view of Mt. Stuart from the south side on the way in. The summit, and to the left of it the West Horn are just visible. Left camp at about 4am and hiked over Goat Pass to the north side of the mountain and Stuart Glacier, pictured. We traversed across the glacier to get to the North Ridge, just visible on right. The ridge is 18 pitches of low to mid fifth class climbing. The start of the 8th pitch. Behind it the Great Gendarme, which we avoided by rappelling to the right. We summited at 1pm, and were back at the car at 8pm.

Mt St Helens

May 15, 2003

My brother (right) and I climbing Mt St Helens on the last unrestricted weekend. After the 15th, the forest service only allows 100 people to summit per day. The rangers estimated that 500 to 800 people were on the mountain. In honor of Mother’s day, many of them were in drag.I broke one of my skis on the descent. Last year I broke the toe of one of my bindings while skiing on the Muir snowfield. The truth of the matter is that I have yet to have a good backcountry skiing experience.

Moab, UT

March 28, 2003

My brother and I got out to Moab Thursday night. Friday we climbed at Wall Street. We did “Seibernetics” 5.8+, “El Crack Diablo” 5.10a, “Slab” 5.8, and “Lacto Mangulation” 5.10b.

Friday night we met up with my cousin, and the three of us made an attempt to ascend the Priest via “Honeymoon Chimney” 5.9 C1. The first pitch was a 5.9 offwidth. I carried a lot of protection, but ended up only using a #4 big bro. It was a significant effort, and I wish someone had taken a picture of me on it. A couple of shots looking out from the base of the chimney. On the left, my brother and my cousin. On the right, looking up the 5.7 chimney which is the 2nd pitch. It is protected by two bolts. My brother jugging up the 3rd pitch, which goes free at 5.11.

The forecast called for deteriorating weather on Monday, so we drove to Telluride to ski. The snow was poor: icy at high elevations and slushy and sparse at low elevations.

Tuesday and Wednesday we climbed at Indian Creek, where we did “Dawn of an Age” 5.10, “Supercrack” 5.10, and a couple of unnamed 5.9 cracks. We attempted the unnamed crack on the Battle of the Bulge Buttress which is right of “Jane Fonda Total Body Workout”. Though rated 5.10+ in our guidebook, a climber who was passing by thought the climb was actually 5.11c.

Me attempting “Supercrack”. Next time I will bring 4 #3 Camalots, 5 #2 Camalots, and a .4 or a .3 Camalot. My brother on “Supercrack”. On Friday we skiied at Alta. Conditions were good: sunny, cold, with 4″ of fresh powder.